High Quality Silk Pillowcase: How to Spot the Real Thing

A high quality silk pillowcase is 100% mulberry silk on both sides, weighs 19 to 25 momme (22 is the most common choice), uses grade 6A fiber in a charmeuse weave, and has enclosed seams with a closure that keeps the pillow from creeping out. If a listing won't tell you the fiber content, the momme and the grade, treat that silence as an answer. Below, we cover what each marker means, how to check it on a product page or in your hands, and which weight suits which kind of sleeper.

The five things that decide quality

1. Fiber: mulberry silk, and only silk

Mulberry silk comes from Bombyx mori silkworms raised on mulberry leaves. Cultivated cocoons give long, unbroken filaments, and long filaments make a smooth, even fabric. Wild or tussah silk has shorter, coarser fibers and a slightly textured surface. It makes good shirts. It is less suited to something your cheek rubs against for eight hours.

Read the fiber line word by word. "Silk satin", "silky", "silk feel" and "mulberry silk blend" usually mean polyester, or a silk front sewn to a polyester or cotton back. A blended case isn't useless, but it shouldn't carry a silk price.

2. Momme weight

Momme (written mm) is the silk trade's unit of fabric weight. One momme is roughly 4.34 grams per square meter, so 22 momme silk carries about 95 grams of fiber per square meter. More fiber means a denser, more opaque fabric that drapes better and takes longer to wear thin.

Momme How it feels Trade-offs Suits
16 to 19 Light, very thin, slightly translucent in pale colors Wears through sooner; seams can pucker Travel, trying silk on a small budget
22 Smooth with some weight; opaque in most colors Costs more than 19; still needs gentle care Most people, nightly use
25 Noticeably heavier, richer drape Higher price; slightly slower to dry People who are hard on bedding and want longevity
30 Dense, almost fluid Expensive, hard to find, holds a bit more warmth Buyers who want the heaviest option available

3. Grade

Raw silk is graded A, B or C, and each letter carries a number, with 6A at the top. A 6A rating means the filaments are long, clean and uniform. Lower grades include shorter or uneven fibers that can feel faintly rough or pill sooner. Plenty of sellers now list 6A as standard. If a listing gives the momme but skips the grade, ask before buying.

4. Weave and luster

Nearly all silk pillowcases use charmeuse, a satin weave that's glossy on one face and matte on the other; the glossy side faces out. Habotai is a plain weave, lighter and less slippery, and it shows up on cheaper cases. Look at the shine, too. Real silk has a soft shimmer that shifts as the fabric moves, while a hard, mirror-like gleam is more typical of polyester satin.

5. Construction, dye and fit

  • Seams should be enclosed (French seams are common), with small, even stitches and no loose thread ends inside.
  • The closure should be a hidden zipper or a deep envelope flap. A shallow flap lets the pillow slide out halfway through the night.
  • OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification means the finished fabric was tested against a list of harmful substances, which matters for a dyed fabric that sits against your face.
  • Check the size against your pillow. A standard case stretched over a queen pillow strains the seams.

Checks to run once it arrives

Product pages can say anything. These tests take a few minutes:

  • Rub a corner between your fingers for a few seconds. Silk warms up; polyester stays slick and can feel slightly plasticky.
  • Turn the case inside out. Both faces of a fully silk case are silk, with the matte side of the charmeuse on the inside.
  • Snip one loose thread from the seam allowance and burn it over a sink. Silk smells like burnt hair and leaves ash that crumbles to powder. Polyester melts into a hard bead and smells like plastic.
  • Wash it once as the label says. A faint tint in the first rinse can happen with dyed silk, but dark water that keeps coming is a sign of cheap dye.

Do this inside the return window. Our FAQ page covers Dosaze's trial, shipping and returns.

Which weight and style suits you

Hot sleepers tend to do best at 19 to 22 momme. Silk breathes well at any weight, but the heaviest cases trap a little more warmth. If you run very hot, read the section below on our ThermaCool case before deciding.

Restless side sleepers put more friction on one patch of fabric every night, so 22 or 25 momme will hold up longer than a light 19. And if you share the bed with a dog or wear face oils and retinol creams, a heavier weave copes better with frequent washing.

On a tight budget, a genuine 19 momme mulberry case is a better buy than a 22 momme "blend" at the same price.

Where the Dosaze silk pillowcase fits

The Dosaze 100% Mulberry Silk Pillowcase is 100% pure mulberry silk at 22 momme and 6A grade, OEKO-TEX certified, with a Silvadur silver antimicrobial treatment. On the table above it sits in the middle row: heavier than entry-level cases, lighter than 25 or 30 momme. We describe it as protecting skin and hair from friction damage, and as cool to the touch and breathable for year-round use.

It won't suit everyone. If you specifically want 25 or 30 momme, look elsewhere. If you want a pillowcase you can toss in a hot wash with your towels, silk of any brand is the wrong fabric.

For sleepers whose main complaint is a hot pillow, the ThermaCool Pillow Case may be the better pick. It isn't silk, so it doesn't offer what silk offers for hair and skin, but it's designed to be cool to the touch and temperature regulating, and it comes with a 60-night risk-free trial.

One more thing a silk case can't do: protect the pillow underneath. Silk is thin and absorbent, and sweat passes straight through. A zip-on Cooling Pillow Protector has a waterproof lining and stain repellent finish, and it doesn't make the crinkling noise some protectors do, so it sits quietly under the silk. You can see the rest of our pillowcases, sheets and protectors in the bedding collection.

Care that keeps silk looking like silk

  • Wash in cold or lukewarm water with a pH-neutral detergent made for silk or wool.
  • Hand wash, or use a gentle cycle with the case inside out in a mesh bag.
  • Skip bleach and fabric softener. Softener leaves a coating that dulls the luster.
  • Air dry flat or on a line, away from direct sun, which fades dyed silk.
  • Iron inside out on the silk setting, or steam.

Rotating two cases means each one gets washed half as often, which is the simplest way to stretch the life of either.

Frequently asked questions

Is 22 or 25 momme better for a silk pillowcase?

Both are high quality. 22 momme is the most common weight for nightly use and is opaque and smooth in most colors. 25 momme is heavier and should last longer with frequent washing, but costs more and holds a little more warmth.

What does 6A grade silk mean?

Raw silk is graded A, B or C with a number, and 6A is the highest. It means the filaments are long, clean and uniform, which gives a smoother fabric that is less prone to pilling. A listing that gives momme but no grade is worth a question before you buy.

How can I tell if a silk pillowcase is real silk?

Rub it between your fingers: silk warms up, polyester stays slick and cool. For a definite answer, burn a single thread from the seam allowance. Silk smells like burnt hair and leaves crumbly ash, while polyester melts into a hard bead.

Can you machine wash a high quality silk pillowcase?

Many can go on a gentle or delicate cycle in cold water, inside out in a mesh bag, with a pH-neutral silk detergent. Always follow the care label first. Avoid bleach, fabric softener and the tumble dryer.

Why does my silk pillowcase feel rough after washing?

Usually it was washed too hot, with a harsh detergent, or dried in the sun or a dryer, which roughens the fibers. Low-grade silk with short filaments can also feel rougher over time. Steaming or ironing on the silk setting often brings back some of the smoothness.